Domaine de la Borde, Arbois - Pupillin Chardonnay Côte de Caillot


This is a stand out from the domaine coming from clay-limestone soil at 450m altitude, making it one of the highest in the Jura. It is fermented and aged in 600 litre demi-muids. The quality of this Chardonnay is on par with white Burgundies well beyond this price point. The cuvée has a Puligny-like or even Chablis-like lemony brightness. You can feel the limestone here with smoky gunflint barrel notes balanced with a cool minerality and lots of yellow citrus fruits. After an hour of air, it develops a palpably grainy marine and mineral texture much like a Chablis, but with a fuller, fleshier fruit presence that's more like a Cote d'Or. Excellent with fish and shellfish, especially lobster.

Domaine de la Borde, Biodyamic, Natural

Julien Mareschal founded his estate in 2003, at the age of 23. Julien had no family wine connections in the Jura. He hailed from a cereal-growing family and studied agriculture initially but followed up with a winemaking diploma in Dijon and work experience in Burgundy and Bordeaux. He also worked for short spells in the Jura.

Having decided that he wanted to set himself up in the Jura, he took over 3.5ha of well-tended, mainly 25-year-old vines in some of the best sites of Pupillin, along with leased space for a winery. In year two he took on another hectare, replanting half of it, and later added another hectare. For the first few years, alongside making wine Julien sold some of his grapes and supported himself giving music lessons. His interest in music continues and he organizes regular jazz, folk and wine evenings at his winery.

Having worked his vineyards in a reasoned approach (lutte raisonnée) from the start, in 2009 he converted half his parcels to either organic or biodynamic and converted his entire estate to biodynamic viticulture in 2012, helped by his friend and ex-teacher in Beaune, François Duvivier of Domaines Marquis d’Angerville.

Each of Julien’s wines is given a name, either of a particular vineyard plot or something more esoteric. Proportionately, he has a substantial amount of Savagnin – nearly 50% of his holdings, all on grey marl, so it’s no surprise that he uses this versatile variety for a characteristic range of wines.