25% each of Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, Marsanne, Ortrugo, and an as-yet unidentified variety from the lower slopes of the vineyard
Giulio Armani is the winemaker at La Stoppa (Emilia Romagna).
Dinavolino displays the sort of textured tannins you’d expect from a red but softened beautifully to sit well within the white wine camp. Made from equal parts Malvasia di Candia Aromatico, Marsanne, Ortrugo and an unidentified grape that’s a mystery even to the maker, Dinavolino is left of centre before fermentation’s even begun. Growing vines at an elevation of 1500 feet and picking berries at a potential alcohol of 11.5% is almost guaranteed to put acidity as the centrepiece of your wine, and the corresponding low pH has allowed Armani to get away with adding no sulphur whatsoever.
Besides the striking acidity on its very clean, textured palate, the wine balances somewhere near the middle of the floral–fruit spectrum. Four months on the skins have added apricots, apples, orange blossom and a little spice to the nose – none of which would present had the winemaker trodden a more conventional path. Unfiltered too. Pair with salt cod, ricotta-filled pasta or hard cheese.