Domaine Larue, Saint-Aubin.
In a time where the wines of neighbours Puligny and Chassagne are reaching eye-watering price levels, the village of Saint-Aubin with its rocky, limestone laden soils and great exposure seems like the obvious choice for sourcing mineral, racy white Burgundies. Brothers Didier and Denis Larue (recently joined by Denis’s son Bruno) run this 15-ha family Domaine, with vineyards located in the best premier crus Saint-Aubin but also in Puligny and Chassagne. The wines are unapologetically mineral, dry, tensed and precise, like true great white Burgundies. They seem to have serious ageing potential but deliver immense pleasure at an early age too. Not much availability in this estate (like in most visited) but Didier, who was just back from a holiday in Ireland, which he truly enjoyed, was delighted to find an importer there, he gave us a small allocation of the following: (again, expect more wines from this estate in the years to come)
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘Murgers des Dents de Chien’ was a revelation when tasted over the course of several days, just getting more and more complex as it evolved. A complex, creamy, buttery nose, hazelnut and very fine. Dry, mid-weight, lovely mouthfeel, soft, juicy acidity, limes mid-finish, beautifully put together and balanced.