Henri and Gilles Buisson, Saint Romain Certified organic by Ecocert
Frédérick, (oenologist) and his brother Franck (commercial) are the eighth generation of Buisson vignerons at this estate. Their grandfather Henri began bottling his own production as early as 1947 when Saint Romain achieved its own AOC status. In the 1970s, his son and the boy’s father, Gilles began farming using an organic approach. In 2009, the estate became Ecocert certified and the brothers produce an experimental natural/zero sulphur cuvée each vintage (‘Absolu’). The philosophy is one of hard work in the vineyard, indigenous yeast fermentations only and a low intervention approach in order to maximise the terroir-expresson and to produce balanced wines that have the capacity to age well.
The vineyards of Saint Romain are often overlooked since they are located to the west of some of the most famous vineyards of the Cote de Beaune and are somewhat isolated in a valley tucked away on the road that runs from Meursault and Volnay through Auxey Duresses and then on to Saint Romain. This appellation, however, deserves considerably more attention as the exposure of the vineyards is excellent, the slopes are steep and the soil is a mix of clay, limestone and marne. The slightly cooler temperatures result in a longer growing season and wines that carry a pleasant and refreshing level of acidity. The Buisson domaine is a fine source of terroir-expressive wines that offer outstanding value.
‘Surrounded by the hills of Mont Melian, Montagne du Bourdon and Montagne du Tillet, Auxey-Duresses is stretched out along the Beaune-Autun road, between Monthélie and Saint-Romain. Driving from Monthélie on the D973, ‘Les Ecusseaux’ lies to the left of the road, with its premier cru section tight along the road. In the hands of a meticulous grower like Buisson, it is makes for a happy hunting ground for good-value red Burgundy.
Quite a deep colour, with a fruit-laden nose of cassis, raspberry and animal nuances. It is supple, with fine tannins which will become velvety and textured with further bottle age.
Needs aeration to show at its best at present and it will evolve beautifully over the next 5-7 years’ Claire