Champagne PHILIPPONNAT, Mareuil-sur-Ay
“The late Colin Fenton MW, who was perhaps the world’s greatest admirer of
Champagne Salon, stated that anyone who could not understand or like Salon
would not appreciate Clos des Goisses, and vice versa … both have a singular
intensity which sets them apart from all other Champagnes.” Tom Stevenson
The story begins in 1522, when April le Philipponnat was registered as owner of an estate in Ay.
In 1910, Auguste and Pierre Philipponnat settle in Mareuil sur Aÿ and start using the old wine cellars (18th Century) of the castle and give their House its modern commercial momentum despite the onset of the First World War and a widespread phylloxera crisis.
In 1935, Pierre Philipponnat acquires the Clos des Goisses, a unique south-facing, 5 ½ hectare-vineyard on the flank of the Gruguet hill. Breaking with the tradition of blending in Champagne, he creates a remarkable single-vineyard wine.
Today, Philipponnat is one of the main owners of grand and premier cru vineyards, with its 17-hectare vineyard holding comprising mainly Pinot Noir grapes. The vines are located in the villages of Mareuil, Avenay, Mutigny and Ay and each have traditional and symbolic names: Les Remissones, La Bauve, Buisson Saint Loup, Cuivron, etc.
The Philipponnat style is for intensity, with the predominance of Pinot Noir in the blends and the tradition of picking slightly later than most; and freshness, thanks to the use of a minimum of 30% of Chardonnay, only the first pressing makes it in the cuvées, and a very moderate dosage, which protects the aromatic freshness and the natural minerality of the base wines.
Pure cuvée (first pressing) of Pinot Noir (always the major part of the blend, 65%), of Chardonnay (30%) and of Pinot Meunier (5%, always the smallest portion of the blend).
The Pinot Noir grapes come essentially from Philipponnat own vineyards, located in Ay and Mareuil sur Ay. The Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier grapes come from the finest vineyards in the heart of the Champagne region. Reserve wines: 25 to 40%. These are blended again every year in a “solera” fashion in order to incorporate older wines without loosing freshness.
Pale gold with fine persistent mousse it reveals aromas of citrus and red fruits and notes of delicately yeasty fresh bread. In the mouth the wine is smooth and well-structured with a flicker of lime on the attack unfolding into a richer palate of red fruits and apples.