Clos du Marquis 2004, recommended in the Sunday Business Post

TO PUT BY Clos du Marquis, AC St Julien 2004 (92), €49 from Le Caveau, Market Yard, Kilkenny: While this is the second wine made at Chateau Leoville Las Cases, it is not made like other second wines. Rather than being made from younger vines or barrels not thought good enough for the main wine, Clos du Marquis has, since 1902, been made from its own sub-vineyard called Le Petit Clos, with very old vines. The wine is of classed growth quality, and the 2004 is very polished, with blackberry and cedar notes, touches of leather and truffle. It is a very dark wine, quite restrained, but with age it opens up and offers layers of chocolate, kir and bramble. Fine with decanting now, it will improve with another two or three years, and would go well with roast lamb or strong game dishes. Tomas Clancy, Sunday Business Post 14th June 2009