THE SUNDAY TIMES – Sunday February 19, 2012
Rioja, from Spain, gets my vote as the wine world’s most polished diplomat, writes Ernie Whalley. Feted in the 1960s, it was feted as the answer to the escalating prices of "Left Bank" Bordeaux. Rioja suffered a quality dip as it rose in popularity, but this has since been overcome. The wine`s producers have created some big, powerful reds in the recent past and even though they have throttled back a little of late, the wine still wins hearts. Don`t be bamboozled by the hierarchy, though. The best crianzas, which are aged for at least two years, are better than the worst reservas, aged for three or more. Gran reservas, at least five years old, are a case apart and should be judged against one anotber. Quality varied widely in the 22 reservas we tasted, but these four are very good indeed:
Hacienda Grimon Reserva 2005 - SILVER 17/20
Emie Whalley says: Remarkable wine, no sign of fruit fade. If you like the walnuts, marzipan, truffles and other savoury things ageing confers. this is the one to buy and lay down.
Martin Moran says: A keeper. This has the fruit, spice and structure to last for years; or drink it now with pink lamb.
