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The wine world always needs a fiery debate to sink its teeth into... Find our Laguiole en Aubrac Corkscrews here.

Natural Wine, by Raymond Blake The wine world always needs a fiery debate to sink its teeth into; under-garments were once tied in knots when the use, or overuse, of new oak was discussed; then came the cork v screwcap debate, which now simmers on a back burner, allowing for rational rather than hot-headed debate. Step forward ‘natural’ wine, it is your turn to set the commentators at (verbal) daggers drawn. It is hard to fathom how the simple word ‘natural’ could be the cause of so much heated debate but, once it is appended to ‘wine’, the fur begins to fly. The problem is two-fold: those winemakers who do not class themselves as ‘natural’ object to the seizure of the moral high ground that the term ‘natural’ implies; and, as yet, there is no widely accepted definition for natural wine. (See below.) My own disposition is to be in favour of these wines, as much because of what I see elsewhere as what I see in them. The world is awash with bland, industrially produced wines that are the very antithesis of what wine is all about. Wine’s greatest strength and enduring joy is its variety. Rob it of that and you are left with very little, usually a technically faultless or ‘too perfect’ wine – and that rates almost as a fault in my book. These wines have been to the gym, used the sunbed and had the botox done. But their flavours, often in the shape of too much oak or excess added acidity, are bolted on rather than integrated; they have no character of their own. A wine should, nay must, express something of the grape it is made from and the place it is made. Without grape ‘n’ ground it is nothing more than another alcoholic beverage. It is not just the producers who are to blame for this. Far too much wine tasting in the wine media and the trade today is little more than fault spotting. The wine is put through its NCT (or MOT), passes or fails, and that’s that. It’s like assessing candidates for a job on the basis of an aptitude test alone, with no interview. It’s mad and it’s leading to wines that are ever more formulaic, ever less exciting. The natural wine movement has sprung up in reaction to all of this, particularly the over-manipulated, characterless wines. Any natural wines that I have tasted have had character aplenty. Granted, some have gone too far down the funky ‘n’ feral road for anybody’s liking, apart from the winemaker, but most have been suffused with vibrant flavours, lovely freshness and a light texture. They are usually lower in alcohol and have seen less new oak than their mainstream brethren. As a consequence there is much less weight and density of flavour; the wines tend not to plod over the palate, yet they do not cross it unnoticed either. In terms of style, natural wines are sometimes too challenging, too quirky for wine drinkers more used to polished ‘perfect’ flavours. It isn’t going too far to say that some of them exhibit an earthy ‘pong’ that is for aficionados only. But that is not their biggest problem; it is the use of the word ‘natural’ and the suggestion, however unintended, that the wine somehow makes itself, with only a nudge from the hand of man. That is far from the case, for even the lowest intervention winemaking requires significant human input. A better name needs to be found, but what might that be? ‘Un-manipulated’? ‘Low Intervention’? No, I didn’t think so either. TOWARDS A DEFINITION At present the term ‘natural wine’ lacks a proper, rigorous definition and because of its woolly, feel good overtones it is an easy object for derision. Even amongst its proponents there are many variations of just what is meant by the term and this is unlikely to change in the near future. Broadly speaking, a natural wine will fit the following parameters: made with organically or biodynamically grown grapes, harvested by hand from unirrigated vineyards; no additives such as cultured yeasts, sugar, acid or flavourings; very little fining or filtration; minimal or no use of sulphur. In short, it could be summed up thus: Made with little intervention – in the form of chemical and technological wizardry – in the vineyard and the winery. GET THEE TO… LE CAVEAU Nobody in Ireland takes natural wine more seriously than the urbane Pascal Rossignol of Le Caveau in Kilkenny. And he doesn’t adopt a messianic approach to them either, he stocks them because he thinks they are good wines – and they are. The following trio are top of the pops for me: ‘Gran Cerdo’ Tempranillo, Gonzalo Gonzalo Grijalba 13% €12.50 Touraine ‘In Côt We Trust’ 2008, Thierry Puzelat 12% €20.95 Prosecco di Valdobbiadene NV, Casa Coste Piane 11% €19.50 www.lecaveau.ie Article first published in the July-August issue of Food & Wine Magazine. link to Raymond Blake`s website: http://www.blakeonwine.com/files/natural-wine-september-2012.php

During our last Artisan wine tasting held in Dublin last March, Pascal Verhaeghe introduced his last creation to the tasters, a port-like Malbec, made from a rigourous selection of his best grapes. The wine was Malbec Vintage 2010, and it was extremely well received by both the trade and the press. It has now arived on our shelves and you can find it here.

Natural Beauties Organic, biodynamic and “natural” wines, often with deliciously pure flavours, are finally making an impact says Mary Dowey An emerald army is on the march. Where once there were only a few mavericks – avant-garde guerrillas sporadically unleashing esoteric bottles on a wary public – there is now a well-organised militia storming the wine trade’s citadels: restaurants, shops, online retailers. Green wines – organic, biodynamic or “natural” – are finally here in force. “The huge interest they have stirred up in Paris and London is definitely spilling over into Ireland,” says Pascal Rossignol of Le Caveau in Kilkenny, who has built up the most exciting selection in the country. “Some of these wines may seem a bit funky but people love them because they have so much personality.” In my experience, many (but not all) have strikingly pure flavours, with a kind of inner vibrancy that makes them dance on the tongue. As purity underpins the methods by which they are made, they may be chosen for health and environmental reasons as much as for taste. The Gloss, April 2012

Browse page 4 of our Italian section, and you will discover two brilliant wines from Alesandra and Carlo Venturini of Monte dall`Ora, a tiny biodynamic estate in the Veneto - Valpolicella `Saseti` and their Amarone della Valpolicella. On the same page, you will find three wines made with passion and care by Vittorio Innocenti - Chianti dei Colli Senesi; Rosso di Montepulciano and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Another super estate from the Loire has also been added, Jo Pithon`s PITHON-PAILLE wines: the two Anjou `Mozaik` - the white (Chenin Blanc) and the red (Cabernet Franc); Another Anjou white, Coteau des Treilles, a Chenin grown in a southern-exposed, single vineyard, reminescent of a great white Burgundy - and the delicate and sweet Coteaux du Layon `4 Vents`, just to showcase yet another side of what Chenin blanc can achieve in its homeland of the Loire Valley. and finally, just as we thought we had found the best Cru Beaujolais ever with Jean Foillard Morgon `Cote de Py`, we tasted the amazing Didier Desvignes` 2009 Moulin a Vent `Clos les Charmes` during a visit in January 2012 and boy, what a wine!.. we brought in some in bottles, and some in magnums, just to be sure. Happy browsing!

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More artisan, low intervention wines, all the way from Yarra Glen, Australia; Colchagua and Maule Valleys in Chile, Mendoza, Argentina and the Loire Valley… here’s the list: Anjou blanc ‘Haut de la Garde’, Pierre-Bise: A racy, mineral, Savennières-like Chenin blanc Cheverny rouge, Clos du Tue Boeuf: Thierry Puzelat’s light, red berry scented Gamay – Pinot Noir from the Loire Le P’tit Tannique Coule Bien, Puzelat-Bonhomme: Another Loire natural wine from Puzelat’s stable; as original and digestible as always Cinsault ‘Quella’, Louis Antoine Luyt: A Chilean Cinsault, natural, full-bodied, unfiltered and pure fruited Carignan Reserva , Villalobos ‘Wild Vineyards’: Carignan from Chile? ... Yes, from wild, almost untended vineyards and only 12% by vol. Cabernet Sauvignon, Familia Cecchin: From our favourite organic estate in Mendoza, Argentina; Classic Cabernet with lovely natural freshness Carignan, Familia Cecchin: And another South American Carignan for good measure, round and mellow, sweetly-fruited and full-on flavoured Bobar Syrah, Tom and Sally Belford: Organic Syrah from Australia, Beaujolais-style carbonic maceration, and only 12%. Quite different

In today`s Sunday Times Alsace Riesling tasting, Meyer-Fonne`s wine was quite enjoyed by the tasters. Sunday Times 25th March 2012: Glass Act: Alsace Riesling Meyer-Fonne, Alsace Riesling `Katzenthal` 2009: Ernie Whalley says: `The engaging mineral nose, the grapefruit and red citrus undertones and the lively, limey finish kept the interest going to the end of the glass.` Martin Moran says: `Oh so more-ish, this beauty has gulpable candied orange-like fruit, buts its tangy lime zest finish keeps it refereshing and all too easy to drink.` 18/20 - Silver

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16 Muscadet were tasted, and 4 made it to the top, including Chateau du Coing de Saint-Fiacre 2008. Sunday Times, 11th March 2012, Glass Act: Muscadet by Ernie Whalley and Martin Moran Chateau du Coing de Saint Fiacre, Muscadet de Sevre et Maine sur lie 2008: 15.5/20 - Bronze Ernie Whalley says: Dense, citrus and orange zest fruit on the palate and an imposing silky mouthfeel. Still lively. Martin Moran says: The name is a mouthful, but so is this hugely drinkable wine, with a zesty citrus character on the palate.

Ernie Whalley and Martin Moran taste 21 New World Pinot Noir under €20 and Framingham gets silver... Glass act: Pinot Noir ... Of the 21 we tasted, these four, all from New Zealand Marlbourough region, were out in front of the pack: Framingham Pinot Noir 2009, Marlborough: Ernie Whalley says: Smart and understated. More nuances of flavour than most of the others in the tasting. Impressive length. Martin Moran says: Chock full of smooth cherry fruit, with supple tannin and great length. Try it with duck. SIVER, 17/20

THE SUNDAY TIMES – Sunday February 19, 2012 Rioja, from Spain, gets my vote as the wine world’s most polished diplomat, writes Ernie Whalley. Feted in the 1960s, it was feted as the answer to the escalating prices of "Left Bank" Bordeaux. Rioja suffered a quality dip as it rose in popularity, but this has since been overcome. The wine`s producers have created some big, powerful reds in the recent past and even though they have throttled back a little of late, the wine still wins hearts. Don`t be bamboozled by the hierarchy, though. The best crianzas, which are aged for at least two years, are better than the worst reservas, aged for three or more. Gran reservas, at least five years old, are a case apart and should be judged against one anotber. Quality varied widely in the 22 reservas we tasted, but these four are very good indeed: Hacienda Grimon Reserva 2005 - SILVER 17/20 Emie Whalley says: Remarkable wine, no sign of fruit fade. If you like the walnuts, marzipan, truffles and other savoury things ageing confers. this is the one to buy and lay down. Martin Moran says: A keeper. This has the fruit, spice and structure to last for years; or drink it now with pink lamb.