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Vouvray 'La Dilettante' - Irish Times wine of the week

he Irish Times - Saturday, May 28, 2011 Savennières whites with ageing potential Savennières produces some of the Loire’s more individual wines, with plenty of character, and price points to suit most pockets, writes JOHN WILSON FRANCE IS FULL of little-known wines dreamt up by local committees in times past. Sometimes I think an unpronounceable name is a prerequisite for an official appellation. These small areas, producing unique wines from ancient grape varieties, are fascinating to the wine anorak. But the general public rarely shares this enthusiasm and frequently ignore the wines completely. The Loire Valley is probably one of the worst offenders in this respect. Writing an article for a trade body, I once counted almost 90 different appellations. As the Loire produces every conceivable style of wine, the possibility for confusion is endless. However, some of the wines are worth investigating. One such appellation is Savennières which I first discovered while working in the UK. At that stage, Chardonnay was all the rage, preferably with lashings of new oak. At a tasting of French wines, I got particularly excited by the wine, so much so that when I got married the following year, we served the same wine alongside poached salmon at the wedding breakfast. After the event, I squirrelled away a leftover case, opening one bottle every year either of us remembered our anniversary. Some have been very good, but more recently a few were a little tired. But this year, on our 20th anniversary, we cracked open the very last bottle. Despite my concerns, it was sublime: rich, waxy and honeyed, but dry, with a lovely firm acidity. Savennières is made from a sole grape variety, Chenin Blanc. This is the second most widely planted white variety in the Loire, but cannot be described as the most friendly. It is never very forthcoming in its youth, and always full of acidity, although modern winemaking techniques have certainly helped make it more approachable. But given a few years it can blossom into one of the most sublime wines. Vouvray is the best-known name, but you will find Chenin Blanc throughout the central Loire, sometimes dry, sometimes sweet, or often sparkling. Loire expert Richard Kelley, in his free online Definitive Guide to the Wines of the Loire, gives a very accurate description of Chenin Blanc and Savennières in particular. “It has always been considered a cerebral wine – never facile – demanding contemplation, a wine characterised by its unforgiving, youthful austerity and razor sharp acidity,” he writes, “but then true Chenin is defined by the tension and nervosity derived from the levels of malic acid found within.” He also points out that Savennières represents less than a fifth of 1 per cent of all grapes planted in the Loire. My wedding wine came from Florent Baumard, one of the leading producers in the region. His wines are a little more approachable than some, apparently down to the fact that the wines undergo a malolactic fermentation, and therefore have relatively softer acidity. In theory, it should mean they do not age as well, as acidity is the key determining factor in maturing white wine, but my experience does not bear this out. Wine has been made in Savennières for centuries, having been first planted with vines by monks in the 12th century. At one time, it enjoyed great fame in the French court, and was a favourite of Louis XIV. After the second World War, it declined in popularity, but has seen a recent resurgence of interest. The original appellation in 1952 was for a demi-sec or sweet wine, but most are now dry. Within Savennières lies the single vineyard appellation of Coulée de Serrant, historically producing one of the great wines of France. In recent years, it has been run by Nicolas Joly, the dynamic high-priest of the biodynamic movement. I am a fan of some biodynamic wines, but cannot recommend his, as they are made in a very oxidative style. Over the river lie the vineyards of Coteaux du Layon, and their sub-districts of Chaume and Bonnezeaux, which produce some of the world’s greatest sweet wines from the same variety. Terroirs in Donnybrook, le Caveau in Kilkenny and James Nicholson (all of which do mail-order) have a decent range of wines from the Loire, including some from Savennières. Vouvray La Dilettante 2009 Catherine and Pierre Breton, 12%, €17.95 Catherine and Pierre Breton, leading producers in Bourgueil, also produce this fascinating dry(ish) Chenin Blanc, made by biodynamic methods. It has wonderful rich, luscious pineapple and peach fruits, seemingly low acidity, yet retains plenty of life. At a mere 12% alcohol, it is light, yet juicy. Try it with scallops or prawns. Stockist: Le Caveau, Kilkenny
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Alain Brumont Wine Dinner, Friday 6th May 2011

Alain BrumontChateau Montus and Chateau Bouscasse are without doubt, the leading estates in Madiran. For the last 30 years, owner, Alain Brumont has done an enormous amount for the appellation. He set the example by reducing yields, increasing significantly the density of vines per hectare, using only the best available grafts, harvesting perfectly ripe grapes and oak-ageing most of his wine. Today, Brumont is still bursting with fresh ideas and is constantly working in improving his wines, from the excellent value vins de Pays range to the magnificent La Tyre. This is an unmissable opportunity to taste these amazing wines, paired with the delicious food and relaxed atmosphere at Fallon and Byrne:
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Natural Wines

This first flight of `natural wines` come from passionate growers who grow their vines in symbiosis with nature, using only natural products in their vineyards and reducing yields in order to harvest grapes that are healthy and that concentrate all the goodness and characteristics of their terroir. Come harvest time, these grapes are transformed into wines using traditional tools and with minimal human intervention. Which also means no modern additives are used, no sulphites, no acidification, chaptalization etc... the fermentation starts with indigenous yeasts found on the grapes skin and in the air. In other words these wines are the purest and truest expression of their region and terroirs and what`s more, they are incredibly digestible! The list below is not exhaustive, most of the growers we work with and present on this website are true followers of organic practises in their vineyards and also make their wines as naturally as they can. Jean Foillard in Morgon, Pascal Verhaeghe, Luc de Conti in the South-West, The Chaume-Arnaud and Clos de Caveau in the Rhone, Felix Meyer in Alsace, to name but a few, produce wines in a very similar manner. So here are our new `no sulphites added` wines!: Thierry Puzelat, Touraine Cot (Malbec) `In Cot we Trust` Anna Martens (Wife of our best pal, Eric Narioo of Les Caves de Pyrene) Vino di Anna Jeudi 15, IGT Sicilia Familia Ceccin, Mendoza Malbec (Argentina) Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Casa Coste Piane Montlouis `Mineral +`, Frantz Saumon Vouvray Sec `La Dilettante`, Pierre et Catherine Breton
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Meyer-Fonne Masterclass and Wine Dinner

Felix Meyer, one of the most talented poducer of Alsace will be hosting a Masterclass, followed by a Gourmet wine Dinner at the Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore, Co.Waterford. Download details here
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Annual Holidays

We`re open today until 4.30pm, then we close for a week... Re-opening Tuesday 11th January 2011 at 10.30*... We wish all our visitors a very Happy New Year! * We will be open for wholesale orders from 4th January :)
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New Wines!

Our quest for authentic, naturally-made and most importantly, brilliant wines is never ending; this time our new arrivals are coming from producers in Yarra Valley, Central Otago, Guerrouane (Morocco), Santorini (Greece), Roussillon, Bandol, Beaujolais, Corbières, Puglia, Tuscany, Oregon, California, Elgin and Stellenbosch (South Africa) and Mendoza (Argentina). A lot to discover, a lot to digest!. Here is the list! Luddite Shiraz, Stellenbosch, South Africa Elgin Ridge Sauvignon Blanc, Elgin, South Africa - Organic Inkawu Pinotage, Laibach Vineyards, Stellenbosch, South Africa Sokol Blosser Evolution, Dundee Hills, Oregon - Organic Sokol Blosser Meditrina, Dundee Hills, Oregon - Organic Clos Mimi, Sgell Creek Syrah, California Terra Organica Chenin Blanc, Zuccardi Family, Mendoza, Argentina– Organic Santa Julia Organica Malbec, Zuccardi Family, Mendoza, Argentina– Organic Timo Mayer Close-Planted Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Australia Luke Lambert, Heathcote Nebbiolo, Yarra Valley, Australia – Organic Felton Road Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand– Biodynamic Hatzidakis, Santorini Cuvée 17, Greece – Organic Fatalone, Primitivo Gioia Del Colle, Puglia, Italy - Organic Pian Dell’orino, Brunello Di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy – Biodynamic Domaine De La Tour Du Bon, Bandol, Provence - Organic Chateau Ollieux Romanis, Corbières Cuvée Alice, Southern France Domaine Le Roc Des Anges, Côtes Du Roussillon Villages Rouge “Segna de Cor” – Organic Didier Desvignes, Fleurie, Beaujolais - Organic Jean-Luc Matha, Marcillac `Cuvee Lairis` - Organic La Zouina, Volubilia Rouge, Guerrouane, Morocco La Zouina, Volubilia Rose, Guerrouane, Morocco
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Follow Us On Facebook

News, vineyards visits, tutored wine tasting, Kilkenny festivals.... It`s all in there... Le Caveau on Facebook
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New wines! Hacienda GRIMON, an organically run Bodega in Rioja Alta

We are delighted with our latest find from Spain; at a time when the average Rioja tend to be over-powering, over-extracted and over-oaked, stumbling upon the wines of Hacienda Grimon comes as a breath of fresh air. Pure, well-delineated with the right amount of oak and more importantly, extremely digestible, these 2 Riojas are really worth trying.
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Irish Times Magazine - Hidden heroes of the South West

John Wilson relates his meeting with Pascal Verhaeghe (Chateau du Cedre, Cahors) and Luc de Conti (Tour des Gendres, Bergerac) during their Dublin visit last March. Download here.
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New Wines!

First, a lovely white from Gascony, South West France. Domaine de Menard "Cuvee Marine" 2009 a refreshing, flavoursome white, blend of Colombard, Ugni blanc and Gros Manseng, three varietals native of the South West. We are also thrilled to have secured the agency for Ireland for the brilliant Chaume-Arnaud estate in Vinsobres, Southern Rhone. Their Cotes du Rhone is a warm, spicy and sweetly fruited wine, while the Vinsobres is a more meaty, intense, full-bodied red from this new Rhone Appellation. Coming soon, the wines of the great Jean Foillard in Morgon, Domaine de la Plaigne`s toothsome Beaujolais-Villages, Rioja Crianza and Reserva from Hacienda Grimon and two Verdejos from Rueda producer Torres Manur...
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Le Caveau on Facebook

We're now up and running on Facebook - Find Le Caveau on Facebook here.
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Wine Dinner with Chateau du Cedre and Tour des Gendres

Wine Dinner with Chateau du Cedre and Tour des Gendres
Wine Dinner The wines of Southwest France with Pascal Verhaeghe of Château du Cèdre, Cahors and Luc de Conti of Château Tour des Gendres, Bergerac
A wonderful opportunity to meet two of the most progressive winemakers in France, who produce authentic and exceptional wines that reflect and respect their terroir which will be matched with a menu inspired by the hearty, regional cooking of the French southwest. Luc de Conti and Pascal Verhaeghe will present a selection of their wines. M. de Conti is a staunch defender of agrobiology and biodiversity, rejecting chemical fertilisers and weedkillers in favour of natural treatments. He has introduced into the vineyard plants with deep roots to aerate the subsoil and others that naturally control pests. The vines become more vigorous and healthy, digging deeper into the soil to reach different geological layers, and the biodiversity of the vineyard environment changes radically. This philosophy and practice is evident in the domaine’s wines that reproduce the specificity and characteristics of the terroir (soil, subsoil and mother rock) whence they come. M. Verhaeghe also strives to obtain ecological balance in the vineyard and to maintain the potential of the grape to make exceptional wines in the Cellars. His aim is to create wines that are both modern yet respectful of tradition, and can be drunk young. The domaine combines the bourguignon philosophy of promoting the specificity of different terroir with bordelais production techniques of blending a single grape variety –malbec, also known as cot or auxerrois- from different origins and climats. In some cuvées, small proportions of tannat and merlot are also sometimes blended with the malbec. No insectides or fertilisers are used, and surface roots are removed to force the main roots to plunge deep for nutrients. The wines thus reflect the composition, complexity and minerality of the deeper subsoil and geological layers. €65 per person Tuesday 16 th March 2010 at 8 pm The Exchequer Room Fallon & Byrne Dublin 2 Please book your place in advance with David Gallagher, Wine Manager, Fallon and Byrne Contact: wine@fallonandbyrne.com or 01 4721012
~Menu~ Entrée Salade composée with warm Cabecou du Perigord goats’ cheese and walnuts. with Château Tour des Gendres ‘Cuvée des Contis’ Bergerac Blanc AC 2008 et Château Tour des Gendres ‘Moulin des Dames’ Bergerac Blanc AC 2008 Plat Confit de canard aux lentilles verte du Puy. with Château du Cèdre ‘Héritage’ Cahors AC Malbec 2007 et Château Tour des Gendres ‘Gloire de Mon Père’ Côtes de Bergerac AC 2007 Fromages Ossau-Iraty/Abbaye de Belloc/Cantal with Château du Cèdre Cahors AC 2006 et Château du Cèdre ‘Le Cedre’ Cahors AC 2006 Dessert Crème Brûlée with Charles et Marie Hours ‘Clos Uroulat’ Jurançon AC 2008 Thé/Café
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