Burgundy trip, July 2014
My brother and guide on this trip, Hubert Rossignol. Currently Chef de Culture in La Pousse d'Or in Volnay, Hubert has been working in vineyards since 1982. His CV is quite impressive to say the least: Joseph Roty, Gevrey-Chambertin; Robert Groffier, Morey-Saint-Denis; Barthod-Noellat (now Ghislaine Barthod), Chambolle-Musigny; Vincent Girardin, Santenay then Meursault and La Pousse d'Or.
Domaine Parigot, Meloisey
The first port of call was Domaine Parigot in Meloisey, just above Pommard. Alexandre Parigot trained with Hubert at Domaine Vincent Girardin, while he was studying in Beaune so there was no ice to break when we arrived. The tasting was excellent, the Parigots grow vines on 6 different communes (villages) - Meloisey, Beaune, Chassagne, Pommard, Savigny, Meursault. Adept of lutte raisonnée, Alexandre spends most of his time in the vineyards where he learns to understand the need and potential of each of his plots of vines.
The style is for limpid, precise and generously fruited Burgundies; out of the 2 dozen wines tasted, we selected the following ones:
W 2012 Meursault ‘le Limozin’
R 2012 Hautes-Cotes de Beaune ‘ Clos de la Perriere’
R 2011 Beaune 1er Cru ‘les Grèves’
R 2011 Pommard ‘les Vignots’
(wines will be available shortly)
Domaine Bachey-Legros, Santenay
We then moved on to a favorite of Hubert, an estate often referred to 'as producing the best reds in Santenay', Domaine Bachey-Legros where brothers Samuel and Lenaic have joined their mother Christiane. The 19-ha vineyards are superbly located around Santenay - Clos des Hâtes, les Charmes, Clos Rousseau, la Comme etc.. - furthermore 80% of the vines are either old or very old. They also own vines in Maranges and Chassagne-Montrachet. Manual harvest, keen observation and attention to the vineyard needs, rigorous selection (tri) at harvest time and subtle use of new oak, the 2 brothers are absolutely meticulous in bringing in the best grapes possible in their different cuvées. Quite frankly, we could have selected any wines tasted there, but reason must prevail and our short selection is as follow (but this list will definitely be growing soon):
R 2012 Santenay ‘Clos des Hâtes’ V.V
R 2012 Santenay 1er Cru ‘Clos Rousseau’ V.V
R 2012 Santenay 1er Cru ‘Clos Rousseau’ les Fourneaux V.V
(wines will be available shortly)
Domaine Larue, Saint-Aubin
The third estate we visited was Domaine Larue in Saint-Aubin. In a time where the wines of neighbours Puligny and Chassagne are reaching eye-watering price levels, the village of Saint-Aubin with its rocky, limestone laden soils and great exposure seems like the obvious choice for sourcing mineral, racy white Burgundies. Brothers Didier and Denis Larue (recently joined by Denis's son Bruno) run this 15-ha family Domaine, with vineyards located in the best premier crus Saint-Aubin but also in Puligny and Chassagne. The wines are unapologetically mineral, dry, tensed and precise, like true great white Burgundies. They seem to have serious ageing potential but deliver immense pleasure at an early age too. Not much availability in this estate (like in most visited) but Didier, who was just back from a holiday in Ireland, which he truly enjoyed, was delighted to find an importer there, he gave us a small allocation of the following: (again, expect more wines from this estate in the years to come)
W 2012 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘Murgers des dents de chien’
W 2011 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘la Garenne’
(wines will be available shortly)
Maison Ambroise, Prémeaux-Prissey
Following a tip from Arnaud Legat, Sommelier at One Pico Restaurant in Dublin, I went to visit this long established, small négociant house, who operates on 21 hectares of their own vineyards and purchase grapes from another 3. They own vines in Premeaux, Nuits-St-Georges, Ladoix, Meursault, the hill of Corton, Vosne-Romanée (and some Echezeaux!), Gevrey-Chambertin, Vougeot, Beaune and as far as Saint-Romain! As always with similarly parcelled estates in Burgundy, logistic is key. Bertrand Ambroise was recently joined by his son Francois and daughter Ludivine, they have just received their organic certification (2013). Ludivine explained the move to organic viticulture is one of true belief as she lost her grand-father due to illness caused by chemicals used in the fields. Harvested manually, neither filtered nor fined, the wines are classic and expressive with distinct terroir-influenced personalities.
W 2012 Bourgogne Aligoté
W 2012 Ladoix 1er Cru ‘ les Gréchons’
R 2010 Cotes de Nuits Villages
R 2010 Nuits-St-Georges ‘Haut Pruliers’
(wines will be available shortly)
Philippe Milan, Chassey-le-Camp
Trying to locate the tiny hamlet of Valotte near Chassey-le-Camp (roughly equal distance between Santenay and Rully) was some kind of a challenge. Karl-Philippe is in his mid-twenties and is taking progressively over the 11.5-ha family estate. The Milans have acquired a very good reputation over the years and sell about 80% of their wines locally, newly-arrived Karl would love to develop the export a bit more. Vineyards are in the villages of Santenay, Maranges, Mercurey, Rully with small holdings in Pommard, Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. The style is for articulate, fruit-driven wines with excellent freshness and dare I say drinkability. We selected three wines:
W 2012 Rully
R 2012 Rully
R 2012 Mercurey
(wines will be available shortly)
Henri et Gilles Buisson, Saint-Romain
Last but not least was to visit the marvelous estate of the Buisson brothers in Saint-Romain. I discovered their wines at Vinisud, Montpellier back in February (at the Mediterrannean wine show, of all places...) and we brought in a first shipment very shortly after, such was the immediate love I felt for these wines.
Frédérick (oenologist) and his brother Franck (commercial) are the eighth generation of Buisson vignerons at this estate. Their grandfather Henri began bottling his own production as early as 1947 when Saint Romain achieved its own AOC status. In the 1970s, his son and the boy’s father, Gilles began farming using an organic approach, and in 2009 the estate became Ecocert certified. The philosophy is one of hard work in the vineyard, indigenous yeast fermentations only and a low intervention approach in order to maximise the terroir-expression and to produce balanced wines that have the capacity to age well. The brothers also produce a white and a red Saint-Romain with zero sulphur added, both wines are pure, clean and expressive and represent beautifully the terroirs of Saint-Romain.
Our selection (wines are currently available)
W 2012 Saint-Romain ’Sous la Velle’
W 2011 Meursault ‘les Chevalieres’
R 2011 Bourgogne
R 2010 Saint-Romain ‘Sous Roche’
R 2011 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru ‘Les Ecusseaux’
Time to say good-bye to Hubert and Burgundy!
Colm McCan joins Le Caveau
We are delighted to welcome Colm McCan in our team. Colm will be looking after our trade customers in Cork, the South and South-West.
Consultant Sommelier, Ballymaloe House and wine lecturer Ballymaloe Cookery School Colm grew up in Co. Tipperary in the family guesthouse business, a listed historic property with a 250 year old wine cellar so no surprise that Colm has been interested in all things wine related since. Following completion of studies including Diploma in Business Management (Hotel and Catering Management – Block Release) GMIT, and wine studies through the WSET, Colm has worked in high profile hotels and restaurants both in Ireland and overseas for the past 25 years, joining Ballymaloe in 1995 as head sommelier, a position that won him much praise from patrons and peers alike. Wine accolades received under Colms tenure at Ballymaloe include:
• 2012 and 2013 nationwide award for 'Best Restaurant Wine List and Wine Service' in the annual wine awards by well known wine writer, Tomás Clancy, published in the Sunday Business Post • Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for one of the best restaurant wine lists in the world • Lonely Planet Magazine Number 1 Wine Weekend in the World • Georgina Campbell Wine Award of the Year • Food and Wine Magazine Top 10 Sommeliers in Ireland • Automobile Association 'Notable Wine List' award in Ireland 2013 • Daily Telegraph Top 10 wine events in UK & Ireland (only Irish entry)
Colm is also Wine lecturer at the Ballymaloe Cookery School running a wine education programme for the students during the 12 week cookery course, which runs three times yearly. Welcoming national and international wine experts on a regular basis both in person to the classes at Ballymaloe, as well as linking up live with winemakers in the vineyards via the latest technology, and participating in live streaming international tastings, all culminating in a wine exam for the students at the end of their course.
Colm is the organiser of the wine and drinks events of the internationally acclaimed Kerrygold Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine May 2013 and May 2014, bringing together the top names of the Irish and International wine and drinks world for a series of almost 40 wine & drinks talks, tastings, seminars and wine lunches & dinners to Ballymaloe House and Cookery School over the literary festival weekend.
He also organises the ongoing series of wine events at the Grainstore at Ballymaloe, and founding member of the ‘Bringing the Wine Geese Home’ series of year long wine events in Cork city and county held in association with The Gathering 2013 and Cork City Council. Founder member of the newly formed Cork based Munster branch of the International Wine and Food Society. Initiated set-up and managed the Ballymaloe 6 month ‘pop-up wine shop’ at Brown Thomas Cork.
Colm shares our passion and love of authentic, artisan and natural wines and we are absolutely delighted to welcome Colm in our team and are looking forward to working with him!
Edit: Big congrats to Colm who has just been awarded 'Best Sommelier in Ireland' at the Food and Wine Magazine 2014 Awards - (17th August 2014)
@LeCaveau1 @colmmccan Congrats to both - a match made very close to heaven.
— John Wilson (@Wilsononwine) June 25, 2014
@LeCaveau1 @colmmccan best news we've had all day! Delighted to hear that 2 of our favorite wine professionals are linking up!
— L’Atitude51° (@Latitude_51) June 25, 2014
@LeCaveau1 @colmmccan really delighted that you are joining the team, Colm! A big welcome:)
— Claire OBoyle (@OBoyleClaire) June 25, 2014
Food and Wine Magazine April 2014 - The Independents...
The Real Wine Month - April 2014
The Real Wine Month will be running throughout the whole of April to promote natural wines in Ireland and the UK.
Natural wines are made from organic or biodynamic grapes with minimal intervention in the winery. The Real Wine Month will seek to highlight and celebrate these wines in restaurants and independent retailers by making them widely available for consumers to taste, and enjoy.
Over 40 participants so far and counting!
Participating restaurants (Ireland) :
Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry Co.Cork
Fallon and Byrne Restaurant, Dublin 2
Hatch & Sons, St-Stephen's Green, Dublin 2
Chapter One, Dublin 1
La Cave wine bar, Dublin 2
Café Paradiso, Cork
Cliff House Hotel, Ardmore, Co. Waterford
Zuni, Kilkenny
Anocht @ Kilkenny Design Centre, Kilkenny
Campagne, Kilkenny
The Grapevine wine and tapas bar, Kilkenny
Trinity College Cellars, Dublin 2
Etto, Dublin 2
DeVille's Restaurant, Dalkey, Co.Dublin
The Arch Bistro, Churchtown, Dublin 14
Uki-Yo, Dublin 2
The Box Tree, Stepaside Village, Dublin 18
One Pico, Dublin 2
China Sichuan, Sandyford, Dublin 18
The Green House, Dublin 2
Marcel's, Dublin 4
The Cliff Townhouse, Dublin 2
The Black Pig Wine Bar, Kinsale, Co. Cork
Ely Wine Bar, Ely Place, Dublin 2
Ely Bar and Brasserie Chq , IFSC, Dublin 1
Ely Gastro Bar Hq, Grand Canal Square, Dublin 2
Ghan House, Carlingford, Co.Louth
Trax Brasserie, Naas, Co. Kildare
Bouchon (Above Kavannagh's Pub), Naas, Co. Kildare
Taste Matters, Loughrea, Co. Galway
Inis Meain Restaurants and Suites, Aran Islands, Co. Galway
Locks Brasserie, Portobello, Dublin 8
Roly Saul : The Restaurant, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 14
Jacques Restaurant, Cork
Participating wine shops and off licences (Ireland) :
The Corkscrew, Dublin 2
64 wines, Glasthule, Co. Dublin
Fallon and Byrne Wine Cellar, Dublin 2
World Wide Wines, Waterford
La Touche Wines, Greystones, Co.Wicklow
Mac Guinness Wine Merchants, Dundalk, Co.Louth
Clontarf Wines, Clontarf, Co.Dublin
Blackrock cellar, Blackrock, Co.Dublin
Liston's Food Store, Dublin 2
Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 2
Nectar Wines, Sandyford, Dublin 18
Le Caveau, Kilkenny
Restaurants, wine bars, wine shops - Interested in joining in? don't delay, email us secure@lecaveau.ie or contact 056 77 52166
Real Wine Month Events and Tastings in Ireland:
- Alliance Francaise, Dublin 2 - Wednesday 9th April 2014 - 'Exploring Bordeaux' with Claire O'Boyle-Gallagher
- Real Wine Month Natural wine Tasting and Seminar (trade and press) - Wednesday 16th April 2014 - 4 to 6 pm - Ely Wine Bar (upstairs), Ely Place, Dublin 2 - Moderated by Doug Wregg of Les Caves de Pyrene, with guests natural winegrowers: Elena Pantaleoni of La Stoppa (Emilia Romagna, Italy) and Craig Hawkins of Testalonga wines (South Africa) - Places are limited please call Claire, Gary or Pascal to book your seat!
- The Dundalk Wine Circle - Wednesday 23rd April - 'Organic, Biodynamic and Natural Wines' with Claire O'Boyle-Gallagher
- Fallon and Byrne, Dublin 2 - 'Real Wine Tutored Tasting' - Thursday 24th April - 7pm - wine@fallonandbyrne.com - tel: 01 4721012 - €25
- Blackrock cellar, Blackrock, Co.Dublin - 'Organic, Bodynamic and Natural Wines Tasting' - Friday 25th April - 6pm-8pm - Contact: Graham Kearney - Tel: 01 2783844
- Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 2 - Thursday 17th April - 5 to 7 pm - Natural wine tasting with Claire O'Boyle-Gallagher - free
- World Wide Wines, Waterford - 'Real wine tasting' - Friday 25th April 2014 - 4 to 8pm - declan@worldwidewines.ie - tel: 051 878 798 - free
- Café Paradiso, Cork - Monday 28th April - 7pm - 'Real Food and Wine Dinner' - 5-course dinner with matching wines - info@cafeparadiso.ie - tel: 21 4277939 - €60
Related posts / blogs:
The Vine Inspiration, March 6th 2014
Matthew Nugent, The Irish Sun March 8th 2014
and also don't miss ........ The Real Wine Fair London
13th – 14th April 2014
- Sunday April 13th (Trade & Public) 10am – 6pm
- Monday April 14th (Trade) 10am – 6pm
Nice double for Tour des Gendres...
Artisan wine tasting 2014 - Trade and Press
Le Caveau
Artisan Wine Tasting - Trade and Press
Fallon and Byrne, 6th February 2014
10:30 to 17:30
Our annual Portfolio tasting took place on Thursday 6th February, in Fallon and Byrne, Exchequer Street, Dublin 2. This is the event which kicks off the new year for us as it is the time where we present our new wines, new vintages and fresh-from-the-printer wholesale list to sommeliers, restaurateurs, wine buyers, wine writers and journalists. As always, a few wine growers and winery export Managers came up to introduce their wines - Corina from Solar de Urbezo (Carinena, Spain); Laure from Clos de Caveau (Vacqueyras, Rhone Valley); Pedro from Bodegas Fuentenarro (Ribera del Duero); Carlo of Monte dall'Ora (Veneto); Felice of Cantina Frentana (Abruzzo); Pedro of Framingham Vineyards (New Zealand), Stéphane paid us a fourth consecutive visit and introduced his Bordeaux wines from Chateau Turcaud and Dario of Les Caves de Pyrene, another regular to our tastings, came up from London. Their presence give an extra dimension to our tasting and we are very grateful they took the time off their busy schedule to come over and assist us. The turn-out was brilliant, there was a great buzz in the room all day and we would like to sincerely thank everyone who came. The wines showed up very well, there are days you feel wines are closed, and feel a bit numb, but luckily, this wasn't the case last Thursday (probably a fruit day in the biodynamic calendar?) - Incidentally, we had 2 faulty bottles out of over 190 openned, again this is fair and it certainly proves the cork industry have cleaned up their act over recent years. The day ended with growers (and ourselves!) being very satisfied with the turn-out and commenting on the professionalism and knowledge of the tasters, and this is a real tribute to the Irish wine scene. Read Paddy of The Vine Inspiration's views of Jean Foillard Morgon Cote de Py
Beaujolais Nouveau, il est la!
Beaujolais Nouveau 2013
Like many people, I suppose, I had long been dismissive about the wines of Beaujolais. That was until I tasted Jean Foillard’s magnificent Morgon Côte du Py a few years ago...It completely changed my perspective on the possibilities for honest, authentic and even fine wines from this region. Foillard may be one of the avant-garde, but there are other, perhaps less vaunted, producers who are producing Gamay that, without the artifices of excessive intervention in both the vineyard and the cellar, are alive with juicy freshness and a real joie de vivre.
Gilles and Cècile Roux and Didier Desvignes are but two of these producers and their wines have been especially blessed by several exceptionally good recent vintages. I am looking forward to tasting the 2013, which by all accounts, has been made by glorious September weather. We have ordered a small quantity of their Beaujolais Nouveau which gives us a fun excuse to pre-taste the new vintage! As I say, quantities are quite small, so don't delay!
Claire O'Boyle-Gallagher, Le Caveau
Gilles et Cécile Roux, Domaine de la Plaigne - Beaujolais Villages Nouveau 2013
A chance to get an insight into the 2013 vintage from Gilles and Cécile Roux, who are based in Regnié-Durette. Cécile Roux, just this week told us that they were happy with how the vintage went with a glorious unbroken run of sunshine in September resulting in fully ripe grapes. The fermentation cellar, she said, has been heady with the aromas of sweet red fruits and that unmistakeable smell of newly fermented grape juice and smells heavenly!
Didier Desvignes, Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau 'Nature' 2013 Organic viticulture, wild yeasts only (and certainly no 71B!), no chaptalisation, no added sulphur Didier Desvignes is one of a number of small, artisan growers whose dynamism and vision are driving the new quality focus of Beaujolais wines. The best producers of this region are now producing some of the most delicious, food-friendly and under-priced wines in France- no 'goût de banane' here! These light-bodied wines have crunchy raspberry and sour-cherry fruit flavours, soft tannins and fresh acidity. This kind of structure means that they can be drunk slightly cool and complement a wide variety of foods: white or red meats, charcuterie, soft cheeses.November Sale now on!
7 Wines To Celebrate Father's Day In Ireland
Father's Day in Ireland is this coming Sunday, 16 June and we have selected a few delicious wines that would please the most discerning palate:
- Classique French, good value: Chateau Turcaud, Bordeaux 2010
- Spain's classico: Ribera del Duero, Antidoto 2009
- Italian from a rising star estate: Rosso di Montalcino 2008, Pian dell'Orino
- Burgundy and white: Saint-Romain 2010, Olivier Leflaive
- Bordeaux, right bank: Chateau Carteau Cote Daugay 2009, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
- Bordeaux, left bank: Chateau Brane-Cantenac 2007, Margaux
- Off the beaten track, delicious and surprising: Ribera Sacra, Peza do Rei 2010
Kilkenny Cat Laughs Festival - Our top 5 'Funny labels'...
Natural Wine Tasting at Ballymaloe Grain Store
Ballymaloe Grain Store was the venue for our ‘Real wines – Celebrating the Artisan growers’ presentation last Sunday. Pascal Rossignol of Le Caveau was joined by Eric Narioo owner of Les Caves de Pyrene, a UK wine importer championing the cause of Natural wines and his wife Anna Martens, owner/winemaker of Mount Etna winery Vino di Anna. Once again, we greatly appreciated the impeccable organisation of Ballymaloe, lead by sommelier Colm McCan and his team.
We presented 8 wines, each of them bursting with individuality, charm and life. Answering a question during the presentation Eric Narioo predicted that in 20 years, most wines would be produced naturally, given the overwhelming enthusiasm with which an entire new generation of winegrowers around the World are embracing these methods. The demand is certainly growing, with the ‘natural wine bar scene’ in major cities such as New York, London or Paris still in full swing and with more and more restaurants allowing greater space to Artisan wines on their lists.
In effect, Natural wines may never replace conventional wines, but they certainly offer a brilliant alternative to wine drinkers in search of emotion and authenticity, and as in the words of Patricia Nelson recently posted on Slow Food website
‘In the end, there is definitely room to accommodate both markets. Natural wines counter what seems to be increasing homogeneity, and it is heartening to see producers and retailers embracing craft practices while creating products that do not present an ever-pervasive sameness.’
Wines We Presented At Ballymaloe Grain Store
- ‘Pink bulles’ Pet Nat Gamay rosé by Jean Maupertuis (Auvergne, France)
- Vino Bellotti Bianco 2011, Cascina Degli Ulivi (Piemonte, Italy)
- Vouvray ‘la Dilettante’ 2011, Pierre et Catherine Breton (Loire Valley, France)
- Vitovska Amphora 2007, Vodopivec (Friuli, Italy)
- Cheverny Rouge 2011, Clos Tue-Boeuf (Loire Valley, France)
- Vino di Anna 2011, Eric Narioo and Anna Martens (Etna, Sicily, Italy)
- Peza do Rei 2010, Adega Cachin (Ribera Sacra, Spain)
- Villalobos ‘Wild Vineyards’ Carignan Reserve 2010 (Colchagua Valley, Chile)
